Paint

[Hannibal]

Hawk brushes arrived at home in Belgium, will find them end of January ! Will confirm in February my first impressions.


I use stippling for melting two adjacent colours or values, with a dry brush of course to avoid spreading the excess painting caught by the brush at one point over the surface ... Stippling and regular wiping on  tissue gives good results especially on wet-wet.


I use now Liquin for MNM and leather painting as it leaves some shiny finish and seems to emphasize contrast. Of course also accelerate drying as Liquin dries itself quiet fast (but on tissue on skin, leaves some shine, unpleasant with clothes or skin.


Love acrylic Jo Sonia, discovered with paintings and grisaille of Penny Meyer ... Excellent coverage/or pigment density.
Use it for précolouring large flats (busts or large sizes) with 'coloured ghrisaille'




Interesting exchange of information here !!!!

[John Alberts]

"Stippling" technique seems to be getting more adherents.  I see videos on "Youtube" being applied to round figures.  Any particular artist known for stippling on flats?

[PJDeluhery]

@ Willie  - are you a painter who drinks; or a drinker who paints?   
@ Hannibal - To avoid the long wait on drying for oils, get yourself a crock pot. Set it on low, put your figure in it, and leave the lid slightly ajar to prevent overheating. In 6-8 hours (overnight) the figure will be completely dry and you'll be ready to paint again.  Avoid inhaling the fumes. Also, keep your mixed paints in a plastic wet palette case and store them in the freezer.  Mixes will stay revivable for months.

You can use either acrylics or oils to paint flats or anything else and get great results. What changes is the technique.

[willie]

 ok you guys   I us W/N Lukas 1862 Old Holland , Model Colors, Craft Paint from Walmart and others. Now to get down to the real art of painting flats. First one must have Brandy by his or her side when panting , just be careful not to wash you brush out in it. Second would be a good  Royal Navy Rum   Third would be a good Scotch whisky    You use what you like and works for you.  Willie

[Mark Cunnington]

I have painted round figures with oils for many years but have wanted to get into acrylics. I am getting used to acrylics with smaller, 28mm, figures but have a way to go.


With flats, I use oils. I was introduced to Liquin on this forum and that has helped because I found the drying time so frustrating that I would half finish a figure and move on. I have found it gives me time for wet on wet blending for the 1st shadow and 1st highlight. Any further shadows/highlights are done the next day on a dry surface.


I put some oils onto card to soak up the oil before mixing them.


I agree with the comments about using just a few colours and experimenting with mixing. I have made up a few large sheets with various mixes added and notes so I can refer to them.


I still haven't got a perfect French chasseur green or British rifle green yet but it's fun mixing.


I have a few W&N series 7 brushes and they are very good but I will try out the Rosemary & Co ones.


When I am brave enough I will try acrylics as I like their vibrant colours and coverage.


W&N artist range are good but I have some Rembrandt, Royal Talens and Sennelier.

[Brian]

With oil's there are loads to chose form, some better then others and I always used "student" Winson and Newton and found them very good, but then Nick introduced me to the Michael Harding range of oil paints and now that's all I buy,  a bit more money but they really are the best I have found


Had a go with Liquin in the past but just did not suite my painting, but never say no! just got myself a new pot so give it another go 


I always use Jackson's art for paint, a good price and a massive range and easy to order from 

[Brian]

Thats them scale 75 tubed acrylic  not what I said series,75   


Hawk brushes go down to 10/0

[Hannibal]

Thanks Mark, I found a site in England, order is placed, to get them on my return to Belgium in January....
Super !!!

[marko]

Michel for brushes you might try series 33 from Rosemary & company.  Still hand made and very affordable.


As far as acrylics, lots of great options.  Citadel are popular as are Vallejo, Andrea and in my case Scale75 much variety.


Mark

[Hannibal]

Many questions, and you will (§I hope) receive mor diversified replies.


As far as I am concerned, I started with acrylics.. on figurines, then moved to oil and remained on flats.
1) I regret the use of acrylics, because oil is boring long to dry, endless and contrast and tones change days after painting,6 0while you have a net result with acryl quiet immediately !!


2) I am a 'dry painter', not wet on wet and for that reason : I paint 1/2 to one hour, let dray oernight , sometimes more (like for glazes) several days, before continuing.  As result, a painting on flat takes 1à to 25 hours over 10 days to several weeks...


3) I mix paintings and colours, sometimes not, and avoid adding oil to the mix (drying issue), but instead use nothing, or turpentine (in Turkey) or white spirit (in Belgium).  Now I use also liquin for metal to give more contrast and a shiny finish.  Use of turpentine gives me matte finish.


4) My favourite brushes are Winson & Newton, altough I feel quality has ddegradaded during the pst year (point less perfect, hair less resistant); I am also looking for very fine brushes and points for detals on 30mm (few hair) ? Can somebody help me to find a source??


5) In acrylics, I prefered the pots (Games Worskshops or pots (Spanish or Italian) with pointed outlet to the tubes, not so handy to use, dilute ...  But They use stupid names, instead of the colours used in oil field ...


6) I was initially using little mixing (acrylics), but producers love selling you millions containers (good marketing and naive, lazy buyers), to sell you more and mor.  Oil teached me to make my own mixes, and learn from mixing how to paint a colour with few, 2and I would do so if I would return to acrylics too.
Actually I'm buying some acrylics for undercoating, 2with names similar to oil (TOB, Burned easrth, Cadmium red, ...) with several brands, very useful when using both paintings... and less 'farfelu'



.. In short to stimulate discussion and exchange ....

[Brian]

At the show last weekend was asked if flats can be painted with acrylics, of course I said yes and showed a few examples from the table.
I still paint with acrylics now and then but mainly oils, used enamels in the old days but what do you think is the best for flats?

Been told the series 75 tube acrylics are very good, almost as good as oil's, have any of you tried them yet?
Back to oil's do you let the figure dry before the next stage or are you a wet on wet painter,  me wet on wet but this is often the way to make mud if your not carfull 

And then we have brushes, I use Hawk Miniatures, not expansive get 6 or so for the price of one of the top boys and just as good to use and fast service.


Do you mix your paint or get the colour in the pot/tube, I use basic colours, maybe six, and mix my colours so never have two figures the same