I spent last weekend with members of the Waterloo Association touring the battlefields of 1815. They are working hard to get things ready for the anniversary in June. Many of the old unsightly buildings around the Lion Mound have been demolished (though unfortunately not the Mound itself) and a new underground visitor centre is nearing completion. The Panorama has been restored and looks very fresh, though work still has to be done on the foreground.
We were taken around the field by Alasdair White, a very knowledgable gentleman who has been involved in recent archaeology and was able to discount some of the tired old myths, mostly based on Wellington's self-aggrandising accounts. Crossing the valley floor from La Belle alliance to Hougoumont in authentic Belgian rain really made us aware of the difficulties caused by the mud and showed the gradients the French troops had to climb. We followed the line of the now-disappeared orchard, and came to Hougoumont itself. It has been transformed, and looks as close as possible to the way it was during the battle. The more recent building next to the South Gate has been demolished, new roofs are everywhere, and the garden walls have been rebuilt.
Best of all, the North Gate, subject of Glorious Empires' flat, has been rehung. There are two new wooden gates, each 450 kg, and a 900 kg beam of oak. Even though it is still covered with protective plywood, it looks magnificent. The eastern barns and chateau were demolished after the battle, so it is still possible to see into the yard. There is still work to be done, but it looks amazing. It should be well worth a visit as part of the Kulmbach trip.
For anyone with an interest in the battle, I can heartily recommend joining the Waterloo Association. They are an enthusiastic friendly and knowledgable bunch, and produce a very professional looking colour A5 journal
