Kulissen- and construction of models in Diorama

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This is how the rag modeling compound looks after rolling. 2mm thick. The 2mm because the glued on windows on the gray cardboard 2 mm.

Now I take the rag and cover the entire gable wall. With the fingers I can press the modeling mass nicely on double-sided tape. Finger marks and marks on the mass are no problem. they will be removed later. You can now see well the glued window under the modeling clay

Now I start with the small cutter to take away the supernatant plasticine.
The protruding mass is taken away. You can knead the remnants together and put them back in the Tupperware box to use them for the next wall.
Above right the kneaded together leftovers. The gable wall is now covered on the side with the double-sided adhesive tape with the air-hardening modeling compound.
Now I start with the small conical spatula to press the mass on the windows and smooth. If the edges are smoothed on the windows, the excess modeling clay which lies on the windows, can be removed with the small cutter. On the windows, the cutter is set all around a small cut. Then the mass can be lifted off

The windows are now all exposed. However, the edges are now unclean again. So smooth out again with the small spatula.
Now emery paper is used to model the surface structure of the wall. At the edges of the window I do that with my thumbnail, it works great.
Next to the right window you can see the structure of the sandpaper

The entire gable side has been treated with the emery paper. The wall now has a rough structure. Bumps have disappeared. Now I start to work out the bricks. This is done with the small screwdriver. Here, the bricks of the lower firewall are modeled from the clay. The clay is air-hardening, so it dries out at the edges first. Here, of course, the mass offers the air two sides to dry out. Therefore, always start at the edges with the modeling.

Once again, I lightly press the punched out stones with the emery paper. This removes the hard edges from the screwdriver. The stones look quite natural.
You can now incorporate any structures into the modeling compound.
Ziegler and quarry stones, timber beams and much more.

The gable wall is now modeled so far. You can see the edges are already dry. The one or the other bricks has already broken through, which does not hurt the overall picture later.
Model the stones with the small screwdriver. When doing so, always clean the blade of the screwdriver, as the modeling paste will stick to it and dry.

The gable wall is now modeled so far. You can see the edges are already dry. The one or the other bricks has already broken through, which does not hurt the overall picture later.

The putty has the property to shrink during drying. She pulls herself together. If you let the walls dry with the putty, the walls would warp, they would be crooked. You would then be difficult to edit later.
If I have enough time to glue the walls, I could start this condition. The still damp but glued walls could be stabilized by partition walls so that the gray board does not distort. You will see that later.
However, if I do not have time to continue working on this day, there is a simple way to keep the drying walls in a stable state.

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The next step: The protective foil of the double-sided adhesive tape is completely detached from the house wall. I always take the small cutter.

The next step: self-hardening, air-drying modeling clay from the hardware store is now applied to the adhesive wall. I always take the "hobbytime" modeling clay from the Obi hardware store. However, this is only an example, I think each other will fulfill its purpose exactly. The terracotta-colored mass has the advantage that it dries later in brick color, or only little color must be post-treated if you would like to have bricks. A KG costs about 5 €. You get at least one big house built. Opened plasticine dries pretty quickly and becomes unusable. That's why I store the cracked clay in a Tupperdose or similar, which is quite airtight. A small damp cloth is added and you have very long of the modeling clay.
The tools to work with the filler, from the left 1 spatula, stable cutter, 3 tapered smaller spatula, small cutter, 2 small screwdrivers, 1 mini-wire brush

The entire gable side is now freed from the protective film. The gable end is now extremely sticky

For this we need baking paper and a pasta roll, the heavier the better.
A sheet of baking paper is laid out. With the coarse spatula is tapped from the pack modeling clay a piece.

The piece of modeling clay now comes on the sheet of baking paper. Without the baking paper, the modeling paste would stick directly to the table.

A second sheet of baking paper is now placed on the modeling clay.
Now with the rolling pin the modeling mass is rolled to a thickness of approx. 2mm. Roll with the pasta roll from all sides. The flattened modeling clay must later have the surface of the piece of wall to be machined.
Tip: The modeling clay, that is to say, turn this cloth modeling paste between the two sheets of baking paper, then it can be rolled out again more evenly.

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Now, the second window element is placed on the Ponal. This sticks immediately bombproof. You can already see the three-dimensionality of the window.
With the stable cutter, the window surround is now cut. Optionally you can of course use a small circular saw, it's faster. The material is a 2mm x 2mm wooden strip. I always take a slightly harder wood, not balsa.
The side window surrounds are glued. They are flush with the 2mm thick window of two superimposed elements.

Then the upper and lower edging are glued. Below, I always glue a strip 2mm x 3mm. Since you have a small windowsill. In the picture I have turned the window, the upper end is practically down, you could make it so much better and clearer. Now I cut out the windows with the cutter from a sturdy transparent film. This becomes as large as the lasered window elements. The window pane is now placed on the back of the window. The film also sticks immediately bombproof on the window thanks to the superglue.
This is how the finished window looks from the front. The windowpane reflects as in reality. At certain incidence of light you can still look inside the houses as in reality.
Superglue gel is applied to the edges of the cut-out windows. The finished windows are now glued to the window caves. Now you should work exactly. However, the windows can be aligned very well with the prefabricated lines.
Now comes the next step. Sticking the gray cardboard with double-sided tape. The double-sided adhesive tape is usually delivered in a width of 5 cm. All free surfaces are now stuck.

The house wall is turned. Now you can easily separate the double-sided tape. You can see here that the back of the window openings looks unclean. However, this is not relevant, the damage to the cardboard will not be seen later.
This is what my workplace looks like when the double-sided adhesive tape is used. I glue the leftovers to the work table. So I can always take suitable pieces for small gaps. Gluing between the windows is always a piece of cake. In the meantime, gluing is very fast, even on difficult walls.

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Wolfgang Mayer has been developing this type of house construction since about 2001.

Through many experiments and samples with different materials I think it is very easy for the beginner to use this method to create authentic and sizeable model houses in a very short time, which will always be individual.
Even if perhaps some well-versed model builders will read along here, I will write these instructions primarily for new hobby beginners. So let me see it, even if I document such simple steps in image and text. I will number all the pictures to provide a better reference for inquiries. If you have any questions, please send me a short e-mail, I'll answer, even if it should take a few days.
The method is not only suitable for houses but also for walls, bridges and much more.
Have fun testing

In my method of building the supporting surface consists of 2mm gray cardboard. This does not necessarily have to be gray cardboard, but can also be other material, Finnpappe, etc. But Graupappe can still be cut well with the cutter and is very dimensionally stable and stiff. I usually get this gray cardboard in a shop for architecture students. A bow costs about 1.80 €. However, this one already gets a bigger house finished.
So you need for the first steps a sturdy steel ruler (optimal 50 cm), in addition to a sharp pencil, eraser in case you get miscalculated or recorded and a stable cutter.

The gable side, recorded in pencil directly on the 2mm gray cardboard. With the measurements one must of course now be based on his template.
With a window segment lasered out of 1 mm brown cardboard, the later window hollows are marked. These lasered windows consist of two superimposed segments. The window is so later three-dimensional and has a thickness of 2 mm. For marking but I take only a simple part. Also, drawing the windows does not have to be 100% straight, you'll see why later.

Now the gable side is cut out of the gray cardboard with the cutter and the steel ruler.
Now come in 1 mm brown cardboard lasered windows used. Here are the small 6-fold lattice windows. The lasered windows are anchored only with a tiny bridge in the cardboard sheet. With a small cut you can trigger the window elements.

Here the tools to window, 1 stable cutter, 1 small cutter, toothpicks, wood glue and glue.
The small cutter removes the windows from the paper sheet. However, this does not necessarily have to be brown cardboard. I use these because they do not have to be aftertreated in color.
With a toothpick a small amount of Ponal is applied to the surface of the window with the sprouts. A tiny amount is enough. The cardboard connects immediately. You can see that the middle vertical bar has been separated again by the laser. This gives you the option to separate the two window sashes with two small cuts at the top and bottom and to open the window.